Used Mechanic special 2005 Ford 6.0 king ranch chassis for sale in Chico, TX

I DO NOT ANSWER PHONE NUMBERS I DON'T KNOW! MY NUMBER IS PROVIDED FOR TEXTING!

*Note* photos are a mishmash of what I could find most recently; it was not shot for selling. The first photo is it detailed a while back; the latter photos are better representation of what it looks like now. Body is a B+ in my opinion; no wrecks.

I have a 2005, Short Bed, 2 Wheel drive, King Ranch F-350 for sale with a damaged 6.0 engine. This was not a 6.0 failure that you've heard about, but a bolt got into the piston and damaged the piston. The dealership said other than the bolt, the engine looked beautiful! The hone marks were still clear and sharp looking with no wear. Unfortunately, this engine would require a new piston and the #8 to be honed, and they would rather drop a reman engine in than repair. Me too, but I don't have the time or money to do that right now. I love this truck, and have taken great care of it, and it has been my daily driver for the last 5 years, including towing my 5th wheel RV, which it did great! Please read what this truck has going for it below, and some additional pictures have been added.

Now that I've been talking about what the truck has, there's a lot of good in this truck, and the engine failure was a fluke, not a 6.0 blow up.

245k on the truck, except the engine. That was a ford reman put in in 2011 by the previous owner. It had 140k on it.

#5 and #8 injectors both replaced since March, though 8 wasn't necessary it turns out. (I changed that out to see if that was my problem with cylinder contribution, it wasn't)

Blue spring just put in, as well as the oil cooler, it has the updated oil pump stc fitting (solid 1 piece), stand pipes and dummies, new intake gaskets, all new injector o rings including tops, new nipple seals on the oil rails, oil filter and fuel filters just put on. All this was within about 1000 Miles ago. The project was replacing #5 injector and oil cooler, all the rest of that was preventative maintenance.

Also, new engine wire harness and injector wire harness put in. I mention all this stuff because short block or long block some of these parts are going to have to be swapped out. Not necessarily the oil cooler unless you go short block but the injectors wiring harness and Blue Spring on the fuel filter housing and regulator.

Last summer all the tie rods, tie rod ends, clamps and ball joints were replaced with moog parts in the front end, cooling system hoses, a/c compressor and an A/C line (rubber failed on an aftermarket hose; didn't know that before I replaced the compressor which was apparently not necessary...), mishimoto radiator, water pump, clutch fan motor, Michelin tires, bearings packed, and serpentine belt. Only thing broken at that time was radiator and ball joints (worn not broken). Rest was preventative.

Beyond all that, ipr valve was replaced in September due to the wire harness pigtail falling and hitting manifold and shorting it out, not clogged or damaged otherwise, and the turbo was replaced the year before and fuel pump.

Additional upgrades, Banks exhaust, Banks torque convertor ($1k), Banks 6 gun tuner (not connected right now. Taken out of service at time of IPR valve replacement as a trouble shooting measure) Banks Dynafact gauges, though as wired require the 6 gun for the exhaust and boost to work, but can be rewired for independent use (on the to do list prior to the engine), the transmission temp gauge still works though. Amsoil bypass filter and sinister diesel coolant filter. Was running red rotella CAT coolant since the radiator and only synthetic rotella t6 oil.

The 16k weight pullrite super glide 5th wheel hitch is $1k new, 25 gallon aux tank with a pump wired to upfitter #4 with direct tank fill (not an external transfer pump).

All u joints and carrier bearing replaced last year as well. Preventative. And pinion seal replaced (was dripping). CAC boots replaced last year. Cold side cac tube replaced a couple years ago. (The plastic one)

All that above, to me, without an engine is worth more than the 5k I'm asking.

If I were going to fix this truck myself, I would also replace the steering gear box with a red head box.

So, if that sounds like a project you want to work on, then $5k is my price.

But with all that good, I'll tell you what I know is not great. Because I know my truck. Either the starter or the ignition switch is going out. But I think it's the starter. It was a reman from O'Reilly in 2015. Was going to replace it soon, but.... engine....

The steering is a little sloppy hence the red head great box I mentioned earlier. I was hoping all the moog parts would resolve that issue, but that's the last piece of the puzzle.

The fiberglass running boards are not perfect, and the section on the passenger side truck bed is broken due to hitting something on the road; this lead to a small dent on the lower section of the passenger side bed in front of the tire, but not very noticeable, especially if the fiberglass was repaired.

Drop a $5k ashville long block in this and you will have a beautiful strong truck to last years!!! I've done most of the problem maintenance and preventative maintenance that makes this not exactly a 245k mile truck... Anyone looking at this ad and knows 6.0 trucks can recognize that.